What You Should Know About Engineered Wood Flooring

Is this the ideal flooring product?

Engineered wood flooring features real wood, but it’s more stable than solid wood flooring. That’s because it’s made with a laminate construction — several layers glued together under pressure and heat to form a rigid, lightweight planks and tiles. Laminated construction resists shrinking and expanding caused by changes in temperature and humidity.

Typical engineered wood flooring has an inner core of high-density fiberboard and a bottom layer of hardwood that’s treated to resist moisture. The top layer is a veneer of real wood. Depending on the thickness of the top veneer, older, worn engineered wood flooring can be sanded and refinished once or twice, which helps extend its useful life.

Engineered hardwood flooring comes in an array of wood species, colors and finishes—some manufacturers offer hundreds of choices. You can pick domestic favorites such as oak, walnut, cherry and maple. If you like your floors a little spicier, try exotics such as tigerwood, sapele, acacia and more. The prices of engineered wood flooring tend to be slightly less than their solid wood counterparts.

Most engineered floors come prefinished with durable, UV-cured polyurethane. Some finishes include aluminum oxide for extra toughness and are guaranteed for 25 years or more. However, refinishing a flooring product with a super-hard coating can be tricky — look for a pro floor refinisher who has experience removing aluminum oxide-based coatings.

Engineered flooring can be nailed or glued down, just like solid wood flooring. It also comes as a floating floor product, with edges and ends designed to snap together so there’s no nailing. The DIY-friendly snap-together planks or tiles are put down over a thin foam cushion underlayment. The system can be installed over most existing flooring — with the exception of thick carpet — so it’s a good retrofit project. Ease of installation helps save labor costs.

There aren’t many drawbacks to engineered hardwood flooring. Some manufacturers claim their products are moisture-resistant enough that they can be installed in high-humidity areas, but professional installers caution against putting engineered hardwood flooring in bathrooms and laundry rooms. Below-grade basements should be absolutely dry and have no history of flooding or water infiltration.

Maintaining engineered wood flooring is a snap:

·         Sweep and vacuum dust and grit two or three times each week.

·         Wipe up spills immediately.

·         Use a damp mop or sponge sparingly, using only mild soap and water or a floor cleaning product made specifically for wood floors. Make sure there are no wet spots remaining.

·         Keep dogs nails clipped and discourage high heels to avoid dents and dings.

What You Need to Know Before Starting a Floor Installation

New flooring is a good-vibe home improvement project that makes your whole house feel better. And if you’re thinking of DIYing your flooring installation, thumbs up to you. You’ll save about half what it would cost for a pro to do the job, and you’ll sharpen your DIY chops in the process.

Here’s a quick list of what to do before you begin:

1.    Read the instructions (duh!). If your flooring product doesn’t come with installation guidelines, get the instructions from the manufacturer’s website. Check YouTube videos on the subject, and get familiar with the process.

2.    Buy the right tools. Most instructions include a tool list, so don’t short-change yourself there. After all, you’re saving money on the install, right? Rent specialty tools from your local rent-it shop, and ask the manager how to properly operate the tool.

3.    Know your subfloor. In most cases it’s either wood or concrete — each has dos and don’ts when it comes to choosing the right flooring.

Some flooring installations are tailor-made for a do-it-yourselfer, but some are trickier than you might think. Here’s a quick primer on where your skill levels need to be for various flooring installation projects.

SOLID HARDWOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION

Where to put it: Solid hardwood strip flooring should be installed over a clean, dry wood subfloor. Avoid bathrooms, laundry rooms, and below-grade basements.

DIY level: Once you get the hang of it, nailing down hardwood flooring with a rented flooring nail gun goes smoothly. Your biggest challenge is keeping rows straight—check manufacturer’s and YouTube videos for pro tricks on dealing with warped boards.

ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING

Where to put it: Engineered wood planks have laminate construction so they’re not affected by changes in humidity. You can put it in any room, including dry below-grade basements, but it’s wise to avoid bathrooms and laundry rooms where spills or minor flooding might occur.

DIY level: Engineered wood flooring comes as both a glue-down, nail-down, and floating floor system featuring planks with snap-together edges. For the easiest install, DIYers should go with the floating floor.

Laying a Plywood Subfloor

A well-installed subfloor will keep the upper layer level and well-insulated and will help prevent a squeaky floor. Plywood is the most common type of subfloor in new homes.

Step 1.  Plan Ahead

Plywood is rated for use, based on whether it’s for interior or exterior applications, and what type of material you plan to use for the finished floor. Available in standard sheets of 4 X 8 ft (1.2 X 2.5 m), your work will be easier if you minimize the number of cuts you need to make to cover the floor. Lay out your floor carefully before you start attaching sheets to the joists. Also, plan the layout so that the cut edges are against the perimeter of the room. Make sure the sheets are spaced evenly and butt each sheet tightly. The first step is to snap a line across the floor joists to mark the position of the first sheet of plywood.

 Step 2.  Prepare Floor Joists

Apply a consistent bead of construction adhesive on the floor joists.

 Step 3.  Laying the First Piece

Keeping a space of about 1/8 inches (3 mm) away from the walls to allow the material to expand, lay the first piece of plywood on the chalk line.

 Step 4.  Attach to Joists

Starting at one end of the floor, drive nails in every 6 inches (150 mm) along the joists. Screws or staples may also be used.

 Step 5.  Preparing to Cut

To cut plywood to size, use a pair of sawhorses and 2 x 4s to create a stable cutting station.

 Step 6.  Cutting

Using a circular saw with the depth of the blade at 1/2 in (13 mm) deeper than the plywood sheet, cut the plywood to size.

 Step 7.  Laying Plywood

Lay additional pieces of plywood, inserting the tongue into the groove joints of each piece of plywood.

 Step 8.  Fitting

Use a piece of lumber as a smash block to protect the plywood tongue. Smash the additional pieces of plywood in place.

 Step 9.  Leveling and Finishing

Check the butt joints of each piece of plywood to make sure the floor is level. If a sheet is raised, drive extra staples (or nails) to force the sheet into place. Using a flat trowel, cover all of the seams and fasteners with reinforced flooring patch. Sand the floor smooth with a hand sander.

How To Repair Hardwood Flooring

Step 1.  Remove Damaged Pieces of Flooring

Use pry bar to remove damaged pieces of flooring and vacuum any debris left over from the removal process.

Step 2.  Put Vapor Barrier in Place

Cut vapor barrier to size and staple into place using a staple gun. Use a hammer to flatten staples into place.

Step 3.  Nail Boards Into Place

Face-nail each board into place. After all the boards are nailed, use wood putty to cover each nail.

Step 4.  Sand the Boards

Sand the boards with an orbital sander in preparation for the stain.

  

Step 5.  Stain the Wood

Stain the wood using a rag and wood stain appropriate for the type of wood used in the flooring.

How to Lay a Tongue and Groove Subfloor

Older houses have plank subfloors. If you are remodeling and find that some areas of the subfloor are damaged, you may choose to replace them with new tongue-and-groove boards that fit with the character of your house.

Laying Tongue-and-Groove Boards

Position the first board. Check that the board is the right way up. The tongue should be facing you. The following steps show you how to attach tongue-and-groove boards using blind nailing.

Nail Board Into Place

Place the nail where the board’s tongue meets the vertical edge. Position nail at 45-degree angle. Using a nail punch, tap it in place, until it sits below the surface.

Join Boards Together

Place the groove of the next board over the nailed tongue, covering the nails. Make sure that you join boards together over a joist.

Position Rows of Boards

Continue to position rows of boards across the floor. Use blind nailing, in the way shown, as you progress.

Position Final Board

On reaching the final board, scribe and cut to fit as required. A jigsaw is ideal for this. Fasten with finish nails.

Laying Tongue-and-Groove Chipboard (Particle Board)

Flooring-grade chipboard is usually made with tongue-and-groove edges, including the board’s shorter sides. Supporting blocking should be placed around the room’s perimeter. Position the first board across the joists. Insert wedges between the board and the wall, to create an expansion gap of 3/8 inch (10 mm).

Attach the Board

Screw the board in place, using chipboard screws. These should be inserted at 6-in (150-mm) intervals, positioned along a joist.

Place the Next Board

Apply wood glue along the tongue of the board. Then slot the next board in place.

Ensure a Tight Fit

To create a tight joint, tap the boards in place, using an offcut of chipboard as a knocking block.

Clean Excess Glue

As you tighten the boards, you will probably need to wipe away excess glue with a damp sponge.

Finishing and Fixing a Tongue-and-Groove Subfloor

Continue to lay the chipboard. At the edge of the room, mark and cut the boards to fit the remaining space and fix them with screws. Note: Gaining access underneath a tongue-and-groove floor is difficult, due to its interlocking structure. Note where access may be required. Remove the tongue from the board, and screw the board down. It can then be unscrewed and lifted easily. Fix extra blocking to support the edges of the access hatch.

How to Install a Floating Wood Plank Floor

Step 1.  Determine the Room's Area

Begin taking measurements for the hardwood planks. You will need to add about 10 percent to the total for any mistakes you might make or boards that might be damaged. Don't forget to include closet space. There are three types of hardwood flooring: strip, plank and square. Tongue-and-groove edges for these flooring types ensure a tight fit. All are installed in a similar manner. Plank flooring, can vary in width from three to nine inches. Square flooring is literally small squares of glued wood and is slightly less expensive.

Step 2.  Empty the Room

Remove all furniture from the room so you can easily move around.

Step 3.  Remove the Baseboards

To remove the baseboards in the room, first score any caulk or paint at the top of the baseboards with a utility knife. Use a pry bar, hammer and putty knife to protect the wall and pry the baseboards away from the wall, being careful not to damage them if you want to reuse them.

Step 4.  Remove Carpet

Pull the carpet up at one corner and carefully lift it off the tack strips. Roll the carpet as you go along so that it is easier to remove. Once the carpet is out of the room, remove the padding. Again use a pry bar and hammer, this time to remove the tack strips.

Step 5.  Prep the Floor

Carefully scan for any staples that were missed or nail or screw heads that need to be put back down into the subfloor. The idea is to have a smooth subfloor.

Step 6.  Cut Under the Door Jambs

Use a hand saw to cut the door jambs in the room. This allows you to slide the hardwood planks underneath the trim to create a smooth, finished look. Sweep the subfloor thoroughly.

Step 7.  Install Felt

Lay 30-pound felt on the subfloor (as recommended by the flooring manufacturer) and secure it with staples. Cut the felt to size using a utility knife.

Step 8.  Mark and Install the First Row

Measure 12 inches out from the starting wall at opposite ends, make marks, then snap a chalk line over the marks. Place the starter plank against the wall, then measure the distance from the edge of the plank to the chalk line. Verify the distance is the same at several points. Align the board if it is not. Any gaps between the plank and the wall will be covered by baseboards and shoe molding. Some manufactures recommend pushing the first row against spacers that keep the planks away from the wall a small distance. Others advise nailing the first row to the subfloor. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. If nailing the first row down, use a pneumatic nailer to secure the piece in place. Lay a second piece in place beside the first and secure it with the nailer. Although you are floating the floor, these first planks have to be nailed so they won't shift as the rest of the planks are added.

Step 9.  Add More Planks

Spread a bead of wood glue across the top of the tongue of the planks, then slide the next plank in place. It is important to make sure that the planks are snuggly seated against each other to prevent gaps. Do this buy tapping them with a hammer and using a scrap piece of wood as a buffer between the plank and hammer. Every few rows place painter's removable tape every few feet perpendicular to the planks and across several rows to keep them snugly together as the glue dries.

Step 10.  Mind the Gap

Leave at least a 1/8-inch expansion gap around the perimeter of the room as suggested by the flooring manufacturer. Also, be sure to remove any glue that seeps through the cracks by using a damp cloth.

Step 11.  Attach Thresholds and Baseboards

Attach the baseboards with nails going through the baseboards and into the wall. Save time by purchasing pre-primed baseboards and shoe molding. Paint the baseboards and shoe molding outside or in the basement with the finish paint before installing them. This will make it much less likely that a paint "mishap" will mar the new floor. Install thresholds in doorways where the flooring ends.

Step 12.  Install Shoe Molding

Attach shoe molding or quarter round with the nailer making sure that the nails are seated just below the surface of the wood and extend into the baseboard. Fill nail holes in the molding with painter's putty and sand smooth after it is dry.

Step 13.  Touch Up the Paint

Prime and paint the molding where you can see the painter's putty taking care to protect the new floor from paint drips.

How to Clean Hardwood Floors

Learn how to care for hardwood floors by using these natural cleaners and following these simple tips.

Hardwood floors bring an earthy, warm beauty to your home. They’re durable and, with proper care, last for decades. You can keep them looking lovely by following these tips on how to clean hardwood floors.

The first step: Use a dust mop or vacuum to remove dirt, dust, pet hair and other debris that could scratch the floor. Don’t use a vacuum with a beater bar attachment as it could damage the surface of the floor. Use the floor-brush attachment. Depending on traffic and the number of pets and children you have, you’ll need to do this at least once a week.

Dust mopping won’t remove the dirt and grime that build up over time. For periodic deep cleaning, you’ll need to use a liquid cleaner. You can also make your own cleaner by mixing one part vinegar to 10 parts warm water. Add a few drops of liquid Castile soap.

Whatever cleaner you choose, the process for how to clean wood floors and how to clean engineered hardwood floors is the same. Saturate a rag or sponge mop in your cleaning solution. Wring it out thoroughly so the mop is damp, not wet. Mop the floor with the cleaner, being careful to not put too much liquid on the floor. Rinse the mop with clean water, wring out excess, and damp mop the floor to remove the cleaner. Wipe up excess water with a clean, dry towel because standing water will damage the floor. 

You can also use boiling water and two teabags to clean hardwood floors. The tannic acid in tea creates a beautiful shine. Let two teabags steep in the boiling water for a few minutes. Pour the tea into a bucket. Take a soft cloth and wring it out in the tea. The cloth merely needs to be damp, not soaked. This will enable the floor to dry quickly. Wash the floor and be ready to be amazed by the sheen.

Covering scratches that remain after cleaning is part of knowing how to clean a wood floor. Take a crayon the color of the floor and rub it on the scratch to fill the gap. Turn a blow dryer on high, heat the area where the crayon was applied and buff it with a soft cloth.

Prevent dirt and damage to your newly cleaned floors. Put doormats inside and outside exterior doors to cut down on the dirt and moisture tracked in. Avoid scratches by using floor protectors under furniture and putting down rugs in high-traffic areas. Knowing how to clean a wood floor will keep yours looking beautiful for years.

How to Care for Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood floors start out rough. After the pieces are planed for a smooth finish, a tongue and groove is cut into their sides. Parquet floors are made with much the same process.

Engineered floors are created from several layers of wood veneer pressed tightly together. One advantage of engineered floors is that they can be laid directly on top of concrete slabs.

The finish on the floor will partly determine the best method of floor care. In general, caring for waxed wood floors is the same as caring for those coated in polyurethane -- but there are some differences. Waxed floors should be cleaned with a cleaning/waxing compound that lifts out dirt and adds a coat of fresh wax. Polyurethane-coated floors should be cleaned with vinegar and water.

First, though, find out if the floor is covered with wax or polyurethane. To find out, drip some water onto the floor. If the water beads and stays on top of the floor, it's probably polyurethane; if it soaks in after a few minutes, the floor is probably coated with wax. Another way to tell is to wipe the floor with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. If the floor is waxed, the cloth will develop a waxy feel.

8 Expert Flooring Tips

     1.   Lay Your Floors for Strength

For aesthetic reasons, many people choose to install their floorboards lengthwise across the room. But when you're deciding which way to lay your floor, be sure to run it perpendicular to your joist. This will make your floor as strong as possible and will prevent warping or separating in those pieces in the long run.

     2.   Start With a Level Surface

Before installing any type of wood flooring, it's important to make sure your subfloor is level. If there are voids underneath the floorboards, the floor will squeak. This floor was leveled with sand and topped with a rubber underlayment made from recycled materials.

     3.   Lay a Subfloor If Needed

If you plan to glue down your floor, the only preparation needed is to level the floor. But if you want to nail down your floor, you need to lay a subfloor. Be sure the total thickness of the flooring plus the plywood is enough to receive the nails.

     4.   Consider Floating Floors

Floating floors are inexpensive and easy to install – no nails or glue needed. They're also a great option if your old flooring might have asbestos in it. The boards can be installed right on top of your old floors, saving you the cost of calling in the pros to remove the asbestos.

     5.   Stick to Your Adhesive's Directions

When gluing a wood floor, check the drying time for your particular brand of adhesive. Work in small sections so you don't spread more adhesive than you can cover before it dries.

     6.   Try Engineered Wood in Damp Areas

Ideal for basements and other areas where moisture might be an issue, engineered-wood flooring consists of a top layer of real wood attached to multiple, thin layers of plywood or fiberboard. Depending on the thickness of the veneer, engineered wood can be refinished once or twice.

     7.   Always Test Your Stain

When it comes to staining, wood is unpredictable. Before covering your entire floor, test the stain in an inconspicuous area or on a sample piece of wood to make sure you are satisfied with the color.

     8.   Protect Your Floors

When staining wood floors, keep in mind that the stain is not a protective finish — it only adds color or tone to the wood. Applying another layer of protective coating or polyurethane will protect your investment in the long run.